Pingüino de Humboldt National Reserve: A Marine Fiends Paradise

After a night of mis-adventure in the Aji Verde Hostel in La Serena giving us little sleep, we were finally wrapped up tight in what we assume will be suitable clothing (first mistake) and were on our way north down the Chilean Route 5 towards Los Choros, a small fishing village from where our boat out to the Pingüino de Humboldt National Reserve on Choros and Damas Islands awaited. After continuing down the highway for a while we turn west down a small dirt road towards the village. Along the way we were able to observe a couple of herds of Guanacos (as discussed in a previous post) and wild donkeys that were congregating around one of the few aqua springs found scattered throughout the desolate landscape.

Now I personally am not big on tours, I much prefer the freedom of being able to see things on my on terms...... But, as you will see from the following, the trip out to the Pingüino de Humboldt National Reserve was a massive exception.

Red-legged Cormorant (Phalacrocorax gaimardi)
After about a 20min boat ride out towards the islands, after seeing numerous far off silhouettes of unidentified flying objects that we were told were this species and that species..... and maybe even one of those species, we finally arrived at the first of the two islands that make up the reserve, Choros Island. As soon as we were in close proximity to the island we got our first close up fauna sighting, The Red-legged Cormorant. This individual was siting 20m up a cliff face on a small ledge preening its self. It was well hidden amongst the shadows.
This species is native to the coastlines of South America from Peru to Chile. It nests on these cliff faces where they are nearly undetectable other than their bright red feet and beaks. This species is listed as Near Threatened under the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata)
Within moments of our Red-legged Cormorant encounter, we heard a flutter of wings and spun around to see a Peruvian Booby sitting non-chalauntly on the opposite rock face of the small cove in which our boat was sitting. The look on his face said "I'm the second most common seabird along the South American coast, of course you were gonna see me..... This is MY house." An interesting side note, this also makes them the second most important guano (poo) producing sea bird. Guano is exported for use as a fertiliser and as a source of nitrate for gun powder. For those who like a pun: As a result of their primary commercial use.... Some may even call them Peruvian Poobies.

Humbolt Penguin (Spheniscus humboldtii)
After the twitchers in the group ewwed and ahhhed over the previous two species and we rounded a small headland we encountered the headline act of the trip, the species to which this reserve is dedicated, the Humbolt Penguin. This species of penguin is named after the cold water that travels north from the Antarctic known as the Humbolt Current. Although listed as Threatened on the ICUN Red List due to issues associated with over fishing and climate change, these penguins were abundant on the island. We spotted them fishing in the water and perched upon the islands highest peaks. Although usually found nesting in small caves, apparently it is common practice for the penguins on this island to burrow into the roots of cacti.

Marine Otter (Lontra felina)
The next species we spotted was by far the highlight of the expedition. An extremely rare and cryptic species, the Marine Otter. Throughout the trip so far the guide had been G-ing us up about this species. Every Shadow in the water or odd shape off in the distance was always a Marine Otter. He kept saying how shy they were and how hard it was to get close to them (the Yette of the ocean).... that was until one popped up in the water less than 10m from the boat. BAM! Such a star he was that he even went back down, grabbed an anchovy and surfaced again, laying on his back while he ate. This member of the weasel family, also known as the marine cat, is listed as endangered under the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species and we were very blessed to have seen him in action. So psyched.

South American Sea Lion (Otaria flavescens, formerly Otaria byronia)
Almost camouflaged against the large outcrops of Sienna colored rocks, a collection of inanimate creators laze around in the sun. This group of South American Sea Lions, consisting of 1 male and his small harem of females, barely even acknowledge or existence as they absorb the mid-day sun. These creatures are known for their intelligence and you can really see it in their eyes as the casually turn for a moment, assess the Small boat of tourists invading their territory and then slump back down passively.  Like the other member of this family, the fur seal, the sea lion is distinguished from the true seal by its external ears, a feature that is clearly visible from our position. After we hang within proximity for a moment the big male turns his hind flippers forward in preparation for walking and trundles his way across the rocks towards us, lets out a grunt of warning, then slumps back down, draping himself across one of his females. Although not a rare species, it is our first glimpse of a species we will see all along the South American coast and one we hope to dive with a bit further north.

 Nikis Bits:  he forgot to mention that we also saw huge pods (like 50+) of bottle-nosed and short-beaked dolphins playing with the sea lions, pod of humpback whales, turkey vultures and an elephant seal! One boat, 4 hours, two islands...... super freezing cold.

(Corey: Stay tuned for Dolphin Video)